Growing Beans
Beans
WHERE DO BEANS GROW BESTA fairly sheltered site is invariably preferable, as it provides necessary protection from cold winds that can damage beans. This also helps to avoid the problem of poor pod set due to poor pollination. Because all beans are prone to foot and root rotting diseases, which build up in the soil over time, chose a new site each year. Like most vegetables, they enjoy a lot of sunshine. Plenty of moisture and a fertile soil are essential for a good crop, so avoid very dry, poor soils if possible and prepare the ground very well before planting or sowing.
Beans can be grown successfully in containers and, because they're decorative, can be used to great effect in a small garden, backyard, patio or even a sheltered balcony. Just remember they probably won't crop as well as it is hard to keep them adequately watered. Use a pot that is at least 18in (45cm) in diameter and make sure there are plenty of drainage holes and a layer of broken crocks or stones. An equal parts mixture of loam-based and loam-free compost works best as it retains moisture well without becoming too wet.
SOIL PREPARATION
Ideally, the soil should be thoroughly dug over and plenty of organic material incorporated in the autumn before you plant. If you don't have time to do this advance preparation try to make sure well rotted manure or compost or even leaf mould is incorporated before planting. This helps to improve the soil's moisture retaining ability and fertility, both of which are vital for vigorous and heavy cropping beans. Runners and climbing French beans are both deep-rooted plants, so this extensive soil improvement is especially important to them. Other materials, including shredded and then thoroughly moistened newspaper can also be used but are not as beneficial. Time spent on preparation is never wasted, as it makes all the difference to the crop produced. You should improve the soil to the depth of a spade's head.
Both climbing French and Runners need some sort of framework to twine up and this should be erected in advance of sowing or planting out. It is best to erect a system of canes or poles. These are usually arranged either as a wigwam or in parallel rows with the tops of the canes tightly secured on to a horizontal cane. Chose canes that are about 8ft (2.4m) tall and drive them firmly into the ground. With wigwams tie the tops together with raffia or garden twine or use special cane holders. Ideally the supports should be 6in (15cm) apart so that one bean plant can be grown per cane or pole.. If you use double rows of supports these need to be 2ft (60cm) apart. You can use one long single row, but pollination, and therefore pod set, is usually best if you have several shorter rows in a block. This works by creating a more sheltered site for pollinating insects, but make sure you leave enough space between rows so that you can get to the crop to harvest it. Some of the dwarf runners can, however, be grown as little bushes without support, if you wish.
HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR PLANTS
Runner and French beans can all be grown from seed sown direct outside or can be raised in a greenhouse and later planted out. A lot of people prefer to raise their beans under protection and plant them out when the risk of frost has passed.
Whether you plant them outdoors or start them off indoors first, as long as the soil was well prepared beforehand, there is no need to feed the beans. Regular and plentiful watering is vital though. Runners should be watered particularly heavily, 1 - 2 gallons per square yard (4.5 - 9 litres per square metre) twice a week in dry weather, both when the flower-buds appear and once they?re open. Dwarf French are thirsty too, and because they're grown more densely they need about 4 gallons per square yard (18litres per square metre) in dry weather. It is also helpful to apply a mulch when conditions are dry.
SOWING SEED IN OPEN GROUND
Climbing and dwarf French beans and runners can be grown from direct sown seed, but for French beans it is best to warm the soil by covering with polythene, cloches or fleece for a couple of weeks beforehand. The seeds are best sown between the second half of May and the middle of June, later sowings being most successful in cooler or damper climates. To avoid gaps with runners and climbers, sow two seeds per support and thin out the less vigorous plant later. Sow dwarf French closer than the final spacing and thin out as necessary.
SOWING SEEDS IN POTS AND SEED TRAYS
Sowing indoors tends to give faster and more reliable germination of seeds and is often used for runner beans. However, if the soil is particularly wet or cold, direct sowing outside is best avoided for all types of beans.
Sow a single bean per pot in multi-purpose compost at a depth of 1½ in (4cm). If using a seed tray, sow the beans 2in (5cm) apart. Water well until compost is thoroughly damp and repeat as necessary. The bean seed may not germinate if the compost dries out. Label the pot clearly, then place on a sunny window-sill or in a greenhouse to germinate, which will take just a few days. Once the beans have germinated, seedlings should be ready to plant out after about three weeks. They must be hardened off thoroughly first so that they can cope with the cooler conditions outdoors.
HARVESTING YOUR BEAN CROP
To get the full benefit of the tenderness of a homegrown crop it is essential that you harvest your beans when young and fresh. You should get your first crops from July onwards, but if cloches or fleece are used to protect first sowings of dwarf French you can be eating the first beans as early as June. Cropping of all types should continue until the first frosts, later if your plants are protected. Regular picking is essential, it is true that the more beans you pick the more they will produce.
The yield will vary depending on the variety, growing conditions and the frequency of picking, but you can expect approximately 2lb 4oz (1kg) per runner bean plant, 1lb 2oz (500g) per climbing French bean plant and 6lb 10oz (3kg) of dwarf French per 10ft (3m) row.
Beans, particularly runners can be sliced and frozen (all the books say to blanch them, but there is no need). If you enjoy cooking with dried beans, you can keep a few plants of any of these beans especially for that purpose. Don?t pick the pods but allow them to mature and dry on the plant.
PESTS AND DISEASES
POOR POD SET This is mainly a problem with runners. It is largely due to inadequate moisture, damage to flowers by birds or poor pollination. Regular watering, netting against birds and growing in blocks or on several wigwams close together seems to help. Planting with sweet peas should also help to attract pollinators and will make your beans look even prettier.
BEAN SEED FLY Seedlings fail to emerge or are deformed and lack vigour. This is caused by seeds being attacked by white, legless maggots when germinating and is usually a problem on direct sown seeds. These pests are encouraged by cold, wet and recently manured soil, so avoid these conditions, or sow in pots and trays. Regular treatment with a suitable pesticide such as Sybol may help prevent the problem.
BLACKFLY This is particularly troublesome on soft, new growth and may cause slight stunting and poor growth. Rub off or remove pests with a strong jet of water or spray plants with a suitable pesticide.
FOOT AND ROOT ROTS If beans are grown on the same site for more than one year, this problem may develop. A range of microscopic fungi are responsible and they can kill off roots and stem bases, which often proves fatal. The whole plant wilts, withers and dies. Rotation is essential if this is to be avoided and once the problem has appeared there is nothing that can be done to save the crop.
GREY MOULD Fuzzy grey fungal growth is most common on dwarf French beans in wet locations or when the pods have been in contact with the soil. You can try to avoid it by using twiggy sticks to keep the plants better supported, and choose varieties that tend to crop higher, such as ?Nassau?.
BEAN RUST Dark brown spots consisting of masses of spores develop on the lower leaf surface but usually only towards the end of the season. It is best to pick off any severely affected leaves.
ROOT APHIDS Aphids covered in white, waxy fibres infest the root systems, causing poor growth and wilting during hot, dry weather. At the end of the season, you should remove all infested plants and be careful to always rotate your crops. Back to top